Un-Carted territory

 

Illustration by Sky Harris
Illustration by Sky Harris

Güero// 113 SE 28th Ave

By Allie McRaith /// Features Editor, Russ Alton & Anya Hall /// Staff Writers

If you’re staying in Portland, check out where Un-Carted Territory went this week — or don’t. We don’t care.

But on the real, Guero is good and not too expensive for the portion sizes. I ordered the Frida bowl, which was delish, while accompanied with a heaping of self-loathing for comparing it to Chipotle. Maybe it was better? I will say it was Portland’s sincerest attempt at a burrito bowl — pickled onions and all. —AM

The topic of today’s column is gentrification and the commodification of minority culture. No one is denying that Guero’s tortas are excellent — a confession I am begrudging to make. But we should keep in mind two things: 1) I was hungry beyond imagination when we arrived at the cart, and 2) I am solidly white bourgeoisie. The SE neighborhood of Kerns — which includes the hipper stretches of Hawthorne, Belmont, and Burnside — is a classic example of what we (in the easily-offended liberal arts) like to call “gentrification.” Despite being a purportedly “Mexican” dining establishment, did I see a single Mexican person? No, or at least I don’t think so, since white Mexicans are, in fact, a thing. This would still not stop me from finding something at fault with the cart, whose location and clientele are implicit in the displacement of working class people in the inner city, especially working class POC. So yes, every time you order Mexican food from a white person, a POC is relegated to shanty apartments on the outskirts of town. Congratulations. —RA

This was my second trip to Guero in the past week. So you could say I’m mildly obsessed with the carnitas torta. Unlike a lot of food cart strips in Portland, the conglomerate of food carts where Guero is has a great covered seating area so you’re not left sitting on the curb worried about getting your feet smashed by oncoming cars. There’s also a beer cart complete with some of my favorite beers on tap served in obviously adorable mason jars. Both times I’ve been to Guero I’ve ordered the carnitas torta, and both times I’ve been pleasantly impressed. The torta is stuffed completely full with delicious goodness and I highly recommend splurging and spending the extra 50 cents to add cotija cheese. Everyone should venture out to SE and get themselves a carnitas torta asap. —AH

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